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April/May 2011
Q: Why does a repair shop not want to give me a repair estimate based on another repair shop's diagnosis? Open Answer
A: Most people probably assume the answer is either, "Because we want to charge you" or "Because we don't trust another shop to know what they're doing." I'm in no position to explain why other repair facilities do what they do. But I can share with you why we at Star Automotive prefer not to give estimates in these situations.
The question usually arises when a vehicle is currently in (or recently out of) another repair shop, and the owner desires a "second opinion" to make sure he or she is not being taken advantage of. That's one area where auto technicians and medical physicians have something in common: we are both regularly approached to provide second opinions. But neither of us would - or should - do this without first examining the "patient" to determine the diagnosis and treatment for ourselves.
No physician worth his license would treat your medical condition based on another doctor's diagnosis, staking his reputation (not to mention your life!) on information gathered and relayed by someone else. It's the same with automotive repair.
If you call Star Automotive and ask, "How much is it to replace the water pump on my Mercedes?" don't be surprised if we answer your question with a few of our own. For example, "Why does your Mercedes need a water pump?" If you answer, "Because my car is overheating," there's a chance that replacing the water pump will only treat the symptom rather than the real cause of the overheating. We would likely recommend testing your engine cooling system and offer to schedule an appointment.
At this point, you might feel like replying, "Shop XYZ told me that my car just needs a new water pump. Why do you want to charge me to inspect my vehicle again when all I want is an estimate for replacing the water pump?"
Here's why. Suppose that instead of inspecting your vehicle, we simply give you our estimate for replacing the water pump, schedule an appointment for replacement, and special-order the necessary parts. When your vehicle arrives, our service technician performs a preliminary inspection of the water pump to be replaced, only to discover that the car is also in need of a thermostat bypass hose, clamps and some engine testing. The reason? The water pump bearing failed because the hose burst and leaked all of the antifreeze out of the engine - a sequence of failures involving more than just the water pump.
In this scenario, which I have seen occur many times in my 25 years of auto repair experience, both you and the shop are faced with problems that must be sorted out: a revised (higher) estimate, additional parts to acquire, a longer time without the use of your vehicle, reduced shop productivity and reduced technician income, to name but a few. None of these affect the original repair shop that gave you the water pump diagnosis - they have moved on while you and our shop suffer the consequences.
Needless to say, it's a situation we should both want to avoid. The best way to ensure this? Don't be a "shop hopper." Seek a trustworthy repair facility and stay loyal to them. No second opinions required. No shortcuts. No surprises. Just reliable diagnosis and treatment to keep our "patient" - your vehicle - operating dependably.
Keeping the smile on your face, and the Star on your car - Star Automotive! Close
PAST MONTHS
Q: Do you think "newer" cars are built as well as "older" cars? Open Answer
A: I usually get this question when a client's "newer" vehicle requires a substantial amount of maintenance or repair to be roadworthy. And it's one of those questions that can be asked of 10 different technicians and get 10 different answers. For my answer, I'll rely on my experience with Mercedes-Benz vehicles I have personally owned, the oldest being a 1973 model and the newest a 2006 model. Currently, I own two Mercedes-Benz vehicles: a 1990 model and a 2001 model. (I consider a vehicle to be "older" when it's more than 20 years old.)
While I have greatly enjoyed owning and driving both older and newer Mercedes-Benz vehicles, I would never expect them to have the same performance, safety, styling or operation. Let's look at each of these categories individually to better see the differences between older and newer models:
Performance: I realize there are some exceptions here, but by and large I think we can all agree that newer vehicles have a significant advantage in performance. For example, we now have vehicles with smaller engines that produce over 200 horsepower and 30 MPG. Score one for the newer cars in the performance category.
Safety: In the event of a collision, an older vehicle may only protect you with a traditional seat belt and the hope of "mass wins" (an old automotive expression that says a larger, heavier vehicle will always "win" in a collision with smaller, lighter vehicle). But newer vehicles are manufactured with crumple zones, airbags, pyrotechnic seat belts and many other safety features designed to protect you. Score another for newer cars when it comes to safety.
Styling: I know this area is highly subjective, but I prefer the distinctive styling of older vehicles to the "cookie cutter" styling so common with modern vehicles. There's actually a good reason why many of today's cars look so much alike: manufacturers are all under mandate to make their vehicles more fuel efficient, which means using computer-designed exterior styling that keeps air drag to a minimum (i.e. sloping vehicle profiles). While there are some newer models that stand out from the crowd with unique styling - the Mercedes-Benz SLS model, for example, which draws its styling cues from the classic 300SL Gullwing - I have to score one for older vehicles in the styling department.
Operation: It's a fact of life with older vehicles: they require a trip to the mechanic every 3 months or so just for ordinary, routine maintenance. If you have a newer car, you'll see your mechanic much less often, thanks to the advanced technologies built into recent generations of vehicles. (At Star Automotive, we see most of our clients twice a year: once for routine maintenance, and once for a repair.) And then there are the differences in how older and newer vehicles are physically operated. Remember having to pump the gas pedal or pull the choke lever while praying your older car would start? Or trying to install a set of ignition points on the side of the road in the dark? When I started in this business back in 1986, we'd see cars towed-in about twice a day. Today, it's about once a month. All thanks to the more reliable operation of today's newer vehicles. Score another for the newbies.
The final score? Newer: 3, older: 1. That said, there are many reasons to appreciate older vehicles. Maybe it's a sentimental attachment - memories of childhood travels or a loved one who owned a memorable vehicle. And of course, there's the pride that comes from driving a piece of automotive history. But I would never suggest using an older vehicle for your daily transportation. The safety systems, such as braking, are nowhere near as effective as those in newer vehicles. So in my opinion, if you were to own only one vehicle, you would be better served if it were built within the last 20 years. That's why my wife and I use our 2001 model for trips, and our 1990 model for seeing the local sights in beautiful San Luis Obispo County.
Keep the smile on your face, and the Star on your car! Close
Q: I see promotions during certain times of the year for specific auto repair services. Do mechanics target some repairs seasonally? Open Answer
A: Neither I nor any auto repair providers I associate with are in the business of making up services to pad our bottom line. While there have been some repair shops that engaged in those types of practices, most have long since gone out of business. And those few that continue to employ those tactics are doing it so blatantly that many consumers avoid them - especially when it comes to the care of their Mercedes-Benz.
The reason you see the same promotions every year from reputable repair shops is simple: there are specific parts of your vehicle that should be inspected seasonally. For example, in the winter months, it's a good idea to inspect your vehicle's wiper blades, tires, battery, brakes and heater. In summer, it makes sense to have your air conditioner, engine cooling system and accessory belts inspected. These services will often catch a needed repair before it leads to an urgent problem or roadside breakdown - situations a reputable repair shop will always want to prevent. That's why these shops often issue courtesy reminders throughout the year and in specific seasons.
What does that mean to you, as the owner of a late model Mercedes-Benz? Well, if you're the type of owner that has followed the factory maintenance schedule for your vehicle, you should have nothing to be concerned about. Your vehicle is already being inspected at the recommended intervals - annually for items covered in the "A" service inspection, and every other year for items covered in the "B" service inspection.
On the other hand, if you prefer to have only oil maintenance services performed throughout the year, you should strongly consider having items inspected seasonally. This will help ensure that your vehicle performs reliably in the cold winter, the hot summer and throughout the year.
At Star Automotive, we're always happy to provide you with factory scheduled maintenance and inspections or, if you prefer, seasonal inspections of specific items. Just give us a call to discuss your vehicle's needs.
All of us at Star Automotive want to wish you a great holiday season and a happy new year! I'll look for you with a smile on your face, and a star on your car! Close
Q: When I need to add fluids to my car, are there certain types I should use? Open Answer
A: Research and development of automotive fluids may be the most advanced area in automotive engineering next to vehicle computer systems. That's one reason reading fluid labels in your auto parts store can leave you more confused than you were before! Since Star Automotive is focused on the service and repair of Mercedes-Benz automobiles, I will answer this question as it pertains to these vehicles.
If you have a complete Owner's Packet for your vehicle, it should include a booklet titled "Service Products" which contains reference charts, detailed information and factory part numbers for most of the primary fluids used in your vehicle. Does that mean you must purchase your fluids from Mercedes-Benz? Using factory fluids isn't strictly required, but it is the only way to avoid mistakenly using the wrong fluids in your vehicle. While some of the fluids sold by the factory are also available elsewhere, you could spend countless hours researching and locating them. Instead, I highly recommend simply sticking with the factory service products to save time and eliminate mistakes.
Another reason to use factory service products is that it eliminates label confusion at the auto parts store. For example, you may need to add fluid to your power steering system, but that doesn't necessarily mean you should buy a bottle labeled "Power Steering Fluid." If you own a late-model S Class, for instance, you should add fluid from a bottle labeled "Pentosin Hydraulic Fluid" to your power steering system. Confusing? Yes! That's why even professional mechanics use the "Service Products" booklet when servicing a vehicle.
What might happen if you mistakenly add the wrong fluid to a system in your vehicle? I have seen a $3 bottle of incorrect fluid cause damage costing thousands of dollars to repair. Take antifreeze, for example. There are several different types available, and in some cases mixing two different types together can create a thick, viscous mixture resembling Jell-O. When this mixture forms in your vehicle's engine, radiator, heater and hoses, you can imagine the cost to clean or replace all of the affected components!
The bottom line: unless you regularly purchase a large quantity of one particular fluid, stick with the factory fluids
those that come in Mercedes-Benz bottles. Always use the "Service Products" booklet to make sure you know what fluid to add to a particular system. And if you mistakenly add an incorrect fluid, have it flushed from the system immediately before damage has time to occur.
Until next time, I'll look for you with a smile on your face and a Star on your car! Drive safely! Close
Q: I was in a accident and my airbags did not inflate. Why? Open Answer
A: If you've been in an automobile collision and the airbag(s) in your vehicle didn't deploy, that might actually be a good thing! For one thing, it usually means the impact wasn't severe enough to require airbags. For another, airbags inflate in a manner that can best be described as "violent," sometimes resulting in injury to drivers and passengers.
Why do airbags inflate with such force? When you think about it, an airbag has to transform from being tightly compacted to fully inflated within a few thousandths of a second (milliseconds). The first generation of airbags inflated so explosively, airbag-related injuries were common, and the devices posed an even greater risk to persons of smaller size. In response to these injuries, engineers have introduced newer generations of airbags that deploy much more safely and accurately.
Many people are under the mistaken impression that airbags work independently to prevent serious injury in the event of a collision. But on most late-model vehicles, airbags are a part of the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) which also includes safety belts that automatically tighten during an impact.
Here's how the airbags and the seat belts work together to enhance safety. In most late-model Mercedes-Benz vehicles, the SRS deploys in three stages depending on the severity of the collision. In a lower-speed collision, the seat belt tensioning devices are triggered and the airbags aren't - a level of protection known as "first stage deployment" which is usually adequate to protect the occupants without causing additional injuries. The only time an airbag might deploy in a low-speed collision is when a front-seat occupant fails to wear their seat belt - another good reason to always buckle up!
In a second stage deployment, the seat belts are tensioned and a less explosive charge is triggered to inflate the airbags. Not all of the airbags in a vehicle are deployed at once; instead, the SRS computer deploys the airbags only in the area(s) where they may be needed. There is not a specific speed which differentiates one SRS deployment stage from another; it is determined by the SRS computer as it analyzes data to determine the severity of an impact.
While I hope you never experience any level of SRS deployment, that's especially true of a third stage deployment. This stage activates all of the airbags and seat belt tensioners in response to tremendous conditions that will almost certainly result in injury. At this level of impact, SRS is designed to do one thing: save your life. You'll probably need treatment for your injuries, but at least you'll be going to the hospital and not the morgue.
So, in answer to your question: if you were in a collision and survived with minor injuries without the airbags deploying, you should be very thankful!
Note: I have used many generalities to keep this answer brief and easy to understand. This article should not be considered a replacement for your vehicle owner's manual, which contains accurate information regarding the safety systems for your specific vehicle. Drive safely. Close
Q: As we approach fall and winter, why should I be concerned about my air conditioning system this time of year? Open Answer
A: Living in the relatively cool climate of San Luis Obispo County, you probably don't think you'll need your vehicle's air conditioner from September through May. But when you use your defroster on these cool, damp mornings, you actually are using your air conditioning system! Defrosters work by drying the air being directed at the windshield - a process achieved by engaging the air conditioning system when the defroster is selected.
The cold air generated by the air conditioner is the result of the air passing through a device called the "evaporator," usually located near the foot of the passenger compartment. The evaporator removes moisture from the air and drains it to the outside of your vehicle, which is why you often see water dripping underneath your vehicle when the air conditioning system is in use. Defrosters in vehicles without air conditioning take much longer to remove the moisture from windows, relying on heat produced by the engine. In modern vehicles equipped with air conditioning, the wait time is dramatically reduced. In fact, the defroster has usually removed the moisture long before the engine has even warmed up.
At Star Automotive, we typically find that air conditioning systems need maintenance service every two years. This ensures that the refrigerant system is fully charged and ready to help you clear those foggy windows now...and stay cool when next summer arrives! Close
Q: What is a cabin air filter? And if mine still looks clean, does it need to be replaced?Open Answer
A: Automotive technology has changed dramatically in recent years, as automakers respond to new regulations and consumer demands. As a result, many vehicles are now equipped with a cabin air filter (or "pollen filter") to improve the air you breathe when you're inside your vehicle.
Most European vehicles have been equipped with cabin air filters since the early '90s, but these early filter designs - little more than a piece of mesh fabric - were largely ineffective. In contrast, today's filters are scientific masterpieces, electrostatically charged to attract airborne particles and trap them until the filter is replaced. These filters can remove a significant amount of dust and still allow adequate airflow to keep you and your passengers comfortable.
Activated charcoal is another feature often built into modern cabin air filters. Charcoal absorbs pollutants, both from your own vehicle and those driving ahead of you on the highway, so you and your passengers won't have to breathe them in. If you've ever had an aquarium, you're familiar with how the charcoal filter absorbs pollutants so the fish have clean water in which to live - your vehicle's filter operates on the same principle!
Replacement of your cabin air filter at the specified interval is important, even if the filter looks clean. The electrostatic charge and the activated charcoal both become depleted over time - a condition that is invisible to the naked eye, yet renders the filter less and less effective. Have your filter replaced regularly, and breathe easy! Close
Q: Should I have an expensive repair performed on my vehicle, or just "dump it" and get another vehicle? Open Answer
A: From time-to-time a client facing a large repair bill will ask me this when they are trying to decide if their vehicle is "worth it".
Some might think that as a repair-shop owner my answer is always that the repairs be performed (after all, that is how we earn our living). But, I like to sleep soundly at night and have given this question much thought. Here is my standard answer.
If someone doesn't like their vehicle (repaired or not) then they will probably like it less after pouring money into it. In addition, repairs will only maintain a car's value not increase it, so it may be that the repair money would be better used toward a car that the owner will be happy with.
On the "other side of the coin" Mercedes-Benz owners typically keep their vehicles an average of about 10 times longer than the average vehicle owner. By doing so the Mercedes-Benz owner is able to spread out the repair cost over years and maybe even decades of vehicle ownership. When this is taken into consideration the repair cost is almost always going to be the more cost-effective choice.
Let's look at a specific example. Let's use a 1995 E-Class that needs a transmission replacement and the client is considering purchasing a 2005 (ten-years newer) E-Class as replacement.
Here is how it pencils out:
- Value of current vehicle with transmission: $5000
- Depreciation of vehicle over next two years: $500
- Cost of transmission: $4000
- Repair cost factored over two years: Less than $170 per month
- Value of vehicle without repair performed: $500
- OR
- Cost of comparable replacement vehicle: $25,000
- Depreciation of replacement vehicle over two years: $5000
- Increased insurance premiums over two years: $1200
In two years you will have spent the $4000 (plus maintenance costs) on the vehicle needing the large repair. In two years you will have spent $26,200 (plus maintenance costs) on the replacement vehicle. The replacement vehicle depreciated $5000 while the repaired vehicle may have depreciated only $500. There may also be financing charges associated with the replacement vehicle.
The "least expensive" vehicle you will ever own is the one you currently own. So you will want to carefully consider whether or not replacement is better than repairing. Close
Q: I am considering purchasing a used vehicle. What should I do? Open Answer
A: The used vehicle market has fluctuated dramatically during the last two years. Guidelines for purchasing a "previously owned" vehicle have remained consistent in some regards, and drastically changed in others.
When deciding if a vehicle will fit your needs, the guidelines remain the same. Choose a model of vehicle that will fit your daily use needs. If you have 5 persons in your household which rely on you for transportation, a SL500 might not be the best fit for you at this time (but sure may be tempting!). Likewise, a person whom frequently takes solo highway trips may benefit from the features and aerodynamics of a SL500.
Once you have selected a particular model there is still work to be done. I suggest you spend some time driving the particular model. This can be easier to do than it may sound. If the model you are considering is still being produced, most car rental agencies can rent you a similar vehicle for a weekend at fairly modest cost. If the model you are considering is out of production you still have options. Check local advertisements for vehicles like the one you desire. Contact some of the sellers and arrange to view and drive their vehicles. A private party may be more inclined to allow you to drive the vehicle 20-30 miles than a retail dealership would. There are many local dealers that will allow this long of a test drive, but may require you to sign a "borrowed car agreement" and credit application before you take the vehicle.
Now that you have "borrowed" a vehicle from a seller, take the vehicle to your residence. Does the vehicle fit where you intend to park it? Now drive your daily route. Park the vehicle at your grocery store, church, school, and place of business -- anywhere you frequent. Between these destinations you can observe how the vehicle operates within your daily life. Take a note pad with you and notate any questions you have along the way (what to do with these questions is addressed later). Avoid taking too many people with you, as this may distract you from the vehicle and how it operates in real life. Most likely you do not drive down the road opening and closing all the windows, sunroof, glove box, and sun visors at the same time. Then again, maybe your regular passengers do!
Now you know the vehicle model you wish to purchase and can determine the market value of similar vehicles. You have completed your homework. Now it is time to select the vehicle that catches your eye. But wait! Do not agree on the price and hand over your money just yet. There is one more step in the process of buying a pre-owned vehicle. Schedule an acceptable date for a pre-purchase inspection to be performed. You will have to coordinate with your favorite automotive technician and the vehicle seller. Depending on the price of the vehicle you are purchasing, I would suggest a minimum of a one hour inspection be performed. A vehicle being sold for $20,000.00 or upwards should have at least a two hour inspection by a professional technician. Remember the note pad mentioned above? This is when you pull out your notes and present them to your technician. They should be able to answer the questions you have noted. The vehicle seller may not be able to answer your questions about the vehicle, but your technician should. Your technician should also be able to provide you itemized cost estimates for any defects.
Now the time has come for actually buying the vehicle. To summarize what you have done to this point: Driven the vehicle extensively while making notes, determined the fair market price of similar vehicles, had the vehicle professionally inspected and questions answered. You have collected all this information to prepare yourself for "The Sale Negotiation".
The sale negotiation does not have to be a stressful life experience. You have done your homework and know the condition of the vehicle and what it is worth. My recommendation is to enter negotiations from this perspective. If your repair technician provided you estimates that total less than one-thousand dollars, consider these needed repairs as normal and not a factor in the price negotiation. Any expected repair costs above one-thousand dollars I believe should be reflected in the agreed sale price of the vehicle. To clarify, if the fair market value of the vehicle (based on your research) is $18,000.00 and the technician you hire to perform the pre-purchase inspection gives you repair estimates that total two-thousand dollars, then I feel it is reasonable to expect the seller to reduce the sale price of the vehicle by one-thousand. You may be wondering, "why disregard the first one-thousand dollars of needed repairs?". Well, you are purchasing a used vehicle, not a new vehicle. You should not expect a used vehicle to be 100% like new in condition. Likewise, most sellers would not want to invest one-thousand dollars in a vehicle they will not longer have the use of. However, repairs exceeding one-thousand dollars, I consider to be excessive and should be addressed prior to selling the vehicle.
This all may sound like a large amount of work. But you did ask how I would go about purchasing a pre-owned vehicle. Remember, in the State of California all private party used vehicle sales are "as-is" and do not include a warranty or cooling-off period. Once you have paid for the vehicle, signed the bill of sale, and received the title - you are the owner. Close
Q: Does my Mercedes-Benz have a timing belt that needs to be replaced?Open Answer
A: I have never seen a Mercedes-Benz engine with a timing belt. I'm sure someone can show me one, but I have never come across one in all my years as an automotive technician in San Luis Obispo County. However, every Mercedes-Benz engine I have worked on is equipped with a timing chain. What's the difference? A timing chain is made of hardened metal and is an internally lubricated part of the engine, while a timing belt is usually made of rubber and is located beneath a plastic cover.
In our experience at Star Automotive, we have found that a timing chain can stretch over time as it labors within the engine. If it's allowed to stretch too far, the timing chain can "jump" and cause serious damage to the engine valves.
What to do? We have created some "rule of thumb" guidelines - not official Mercedes-Benz information, just helpful advice for those considering replacement of the timing chain.
For vehicles manufactured in 1997 and earlier, we recommend replacement every 100,000 miles. If replacement is performed after 100,000 miles, we recommend that the chain guides be replaced at the same time. We do make an exception for V-8 models from the 1980s (380, 420, 500 and 560 models), and recommend that the upper chain guides be replaced every time the timing chain is replaced.
Vehicles manufactured after 1997 feature a timing chain design that has proven to be much more durable, lasting well over 150,000 miles without failure. I believe we will eventually recommend replacing the timing chains on these vehicles every 200,000 miles, with the exception of models with 4-cylinder engines (220 and 230). As these engines were designed for fuel economy, their timing chains are much lighter in weight. While we have not seen routine failures, we still recommend replacing the timing chain every 100,000 miles in these vehicles, rather than risk a failure and find yourself with a much more expensive engine repair.
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Q: I encounter lots of advertisements for fuel additives. Should I be using one? Open Answer
A: You could ask this question of 10 automotive technicians and get 10 different answers! As for me, I'll answer by sticking to the facts as they apply to Mercedes-Benz gasoline powered vehicles. (There are special fuel guidelines for Mercedes-Benz diesel powered vehicles, so if you drive one, please check your owner's manual for information on approved fuel additives and proper usage.)
Mercedes-Benz has shared its position on fuel additives with automotive technicians (via a 1990 bulletin titled "Fuel Additives for Mercedes-Benz Engines") as well as consumers (via owners' manuals for most vehicles manufactured since that year).
In short, their position is: Fuel additives can cause too high a concentration of chemicals within the fuel supply, and these chemicals can affect engine performance and cause engine damage.
You may be wondering, "How can one little bottle create too high a concentration?" The answer may surprise you. Virtually all gasoline sold in the U.S. already contains a fuel additive, right out of the pump! Mixing a bottled additive into fuel that already contains an additive can, indeed, result in a high chemical concentration.
Do different fuel brands contain different additives? Again, the answer may surprise you. I have an uncle and a cousin who have worked in fuel refineries. (And no, I don't get a family discount on gasoline!) They both confirmed that there are only a handful of refineries operating in the U.S., and the fuel produced by one refinery is commonly sold at hundreds of different stations under many different brand names all with the same additive.
So the short answer to the question, "Should I be using a fuel additive?" is no. There is no reason to double-up on what the fuel already contains.
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Q: When I turn the key to start my vehicle, nothing happens. I think the battery is dead. What should I do? Open Answer
A: Most drivers are familiar with the practice of "jump starting" a vehicle. While the jump starting procedure is covered in most owners' manuals, what is not covered is the damage that can result from jump starting. Now, I don't intend to replace the manufacturer's information in your owner's manual, but I would like to tell you how we perform the process at Star Automotive based on our 32 years of combined auto repair experience.
Most vehicles manufactured since the late 1970s have an on-board computer. In fact, late model Mercedes-Benz vehicles have over 20 computers, and some models have as many as 50! Most automotive computers are designed to operate reliably with a supply voltage between 10 and 14.5 volts. When another vehicle is connected to your "dead" vehicle, you run the risk of a "voltage spike" during which the voltage momentarily jumps above 14.5 volts. Even though the spike lasts only a fraction of a second, that's more than long enough to damage a computer. The result can be costly, sometimes running into thousands of dollars' worth of supplemental repairs.
We have determined that the safest way to jump start a dead battery is to connect it to another battery rather than another vehicle. Most auto parts stores sell "jump boxes" which basically consist of a battery and jumper cables in a single unit. Likewise, most reputable repair shops and towing companies have a jump box in their tool supply. Of course, using another battery to jump start your vehicle is no guarantee of avoiding damage, but it is certainly safer than connecting to another vehicle. Once the engine is started, it is advisable to wait 4-5 minutes before disconnecting the jump box or second battery.
On the subject of batteries, Star Automotive sells factory Mercedes-Benz batteries because we've found them to be the only batteries that fit the application properly and allow the venting hoses to be attached correctly. (All liquid-acid batteries emit harmful gases that should be vented outside of the vehicle.) If you have questions about your battery, please call or stop by Star Automotive - we'd be happy to help. Close
Q: My vehicle has started making a "funny" noise. What should I do? Open Answer
A: There's usually nothing "funny" about a strange new noise coming from your vehicle. In fact, it may be a warning that one of your vehicle's components is failing. Ignoring a funny noise may result in the repair cost escalating dramatically.
Now, I'm not just saying this to cause you concern over what could be a minor issue. But the fact is, there are certain noises that signal problems which, if not addressed, have the potential to cause serious complications.
For example, I recently had one of our most loyal clients ask me to listen to a noise. I sat in the vehicle and, sure enough, noticed the same sound that had caught my client's ear. So I popped the hood and did some sleuthing, ultimately finding that the water pump bearing had failed. This allowed the water pump pulley to wobble and make a noise when it contacted the front of the engine. Fortunately, my client had brought the sound to my attention almost immediately upon noticing it. The engine wasn't losing coolant or overheating, and a straightforward water pump replacement solved the problem. If my client had ignored the sound and allowed the water pump bearing to completely "break", the damage to the front of the engine could have been extensive, and the repair cost could easily have been four times that of replacing the water pump.
Of course, as a vehicle ages, it will commonly produce a variety of "normal" noises over time. Usually, these are simply coming from wire harnesses, weatherstripping, plastic panels, dry leather and other components. If these noises are bothersome, they can certainly be repaired, but if not addressed should pose no reliability issues with your vehicle.
How do you know if the noise you're hearing is "normal" or "funny"? The only way to know for sure is to see a professional automotive technician and have them locate the source of the sound. Close
Q: When I started my vehicle, I received a message that said "Service Due in 800 Miles" (or something similar). What should I do? Open Answer
A: Most Mercedes-Benz vehicles manufactured in 1998 or later have a computerized system that monitors the vehicle's operation and counts down to the next scheduled maintenance service. The system takes into account the type of driving you do (i.e. city or highway, gentle or aggressive) and tracks the elapsed time and mileage since your last service. The computerized maintenance system then alerts you when the next service is due, enabling you to schedule an appointment at your convenience.
In San Luis Obispo County, most Mercedes-Benz vehicles equipped with this computerized system will require servicing once a year or every 10,000-13,000 miles. Additionally, the recommended level of service will alternate between "Annual" and "Biennial" (usually referred to as "A" and "B" services). These levels of service include replacing the engine oil and filter, checking fluid levels, testing the battery, inspecting brake pads and ensuring proper tire pressures. Additionally, "B" services typically include replacing the climate control system filter(s) and wiper blades. Other maintenance items, such as replacing spark plugs, air filters and fuel filters, are usually handled at mileage intervals during the next scheduled "A" or "B" service.
If your Mercedes-Benz alerts you to a service letter greater than "A" or "B" (such as "D"), your vehicle is equipped with the latest generation of maintenance monitoring system. For these vehicles, we recommend scheduling an annual service appointment. If we observe any additional recommended service items during that appointment, we will inform you so that you can decide how you would like us to proceed. Close
Q: My "Check Engine" light is on. What does that mean? Open Answer
A: The "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light is required by the EPA as standard equipment on all vehicles sold in the United States. It is designed to light when the engine management computer system detects a condition that may cause increased vehicle emissions, which not only impact our air quality but can also reduce the vehicle's fuel economy and performance. (In my opinion, the light should be labeled "Emissions" or "Emission Service Required" to avoid confusion.) Here's how it works:
Your car's computer monitors signals from a variety of sensors and actuators. If one of those signals is outside of the acceptable range, the computer turns on the "Check Engine" light to alert you. In many cases, you would have no other way of knowing there was an emissions problem until it had worsened to the point of causing a serious operational issue.
In extreme cases, the "Check Engine" light will flash, indicating that damage may be occurring and the vehicle should not be driven. Otherwise, if the "Check Engine" light is on and the vehicle is operating normally, it is probably safe to drive to a repair facility. It is important to address the condition as soon as possible to prevent additional damage from occurring and to avoid a breakdown that leaves you stranded. By driving for prolonged periods with your "Check Engine" light illuminated, you have no way of being warned if a second issue should occur or if your original problem is worsening. Close
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